Chefchaouen Offers Adventurers And A Fairytale Experience In Morocco
by Emma Kragenbrink
The images of streets awash in different hues of blue leapt from my travel blogger-saturated Instagram feed. I couldn’t help clicking on the image. The photo was of the Moroccan town of Chefchaouen.
I knew that I had to divert from my backpacking trip itinerary through Europe to head to North Africa.
After traveling through Spain, I crossed the Strait of Gibraltar and began my adventure in Morocco.
Often referred to as the “Blue Pearl of Morocco,” Chefchaouen is distinct in its abundance of blue walls and houses that range from sapphire to bright turquoise depending on how the rays of the sun hit the buildings and narrow cobblestone streets. Awashed in blue the buildings and streets create a maze that makes you feel like you are in a fairytale land under the sea.
Like me, images of the simple architecture awashed in blue has convinced many travelers to make the 3-hour journey from the port of Tangier, the nearest city, into the Rif Mountains.
Traditional Moroccan architectural details in Chefchaouen, Morocco in Africa. (Photo: Pszabo / AdobeStock)
Snuggled in between the Atlas Mountain peaks that stretch from Southwest Morocco all the way to Tunisia, Chefchaouen is no exception to the North African country’s notoriety for its diverse climates and landscapes. Morocco is well known for its Mediterranean coastlines in the north to mountainous slopes run through the country’s center to the harsh Sahara Desert in the east.
Then there’s the country’s vibrant architecture, which brought me to Chefchaouen. The mountain city is typical of Morocco’s buildings, which are a fusion of African, Islamic, and European influences. Influences that have come in waves since prehistoric times through the centuries filled with wars and dynasties up to today’s Alaouite family that has ruled since 1666.
What sets Chefchaouen apart is what the townswomen decided to do more than 20 years ago.
It’s unknown why the women of Chefchaouen decided to paint the medieval town blue, but more than two decades ago, the Chefchaouen townswomen transformed the once white 15th century northern Moroccan village into their blue canvas, Abdeslam Mouden, a local guide told the BBC. Before then, the village was simply a blip on the map along the ancient caravan route between Fez and Tangier that travelers passed by unnoticed. At the time, the only section of town painted the brilliant blue was the Jewish neighborhood.
Explanations for the sudden creative burst range from the blue being a spiritual hue shared by Jews and Muslims, the mountain spring that provides life in the unforgiving landscape, or the blue hue being a natural mosquito repellent, reported the BBC. Whatever the reason, it has brought the women of the town together three times a year for more than two decades to paint the town blue. They work in teams of two or three with paint brushes dripping in blue paint painting by hand in large brushing strokes on the walls and cobblestone streets.
It’s been a hit attracting travelers the world over to admire the shifting hues of blue under the Moroccan sun. Depending on how the sun’s rays fall, the village transforms from the deeper indigo, navy, and sapphire in the shadier areas to the brighter arctic or cornflower shades of blue beneath the sun’s rays.
The painted blue walls of Chefchaouen, Morocco. (Photo: Emma Kragenbrink)
The effect: the town radiates relaxation from the cool mountain climate, to the sky-blue walls that form the quiet winding streets, to the low-stress marketplaces where you can casually shop and eat. Northeast of the medina, or old walled city, lies a small waterfall called Ras el-Maa where locals congregate to wash clothes, gossip, and relax.
Mountain Hikes
I found Chefchaouen to truly be a backpacker’s paradise. The city is surrounded by the Rif mountains which provide a plethora of hiking and biking trails.
During my stay in Chefchaouen, I decided to do a day hike to catch glimpses of the city from above as the town peeked into view from various faces on the side of the mountain. While hiking without a guide it is important to be aware of your surroundings, as the Rif region is well-known for its illegal production of marijuana. Fortunately, I did not come across any fields, and was able to hike freely along the trails that wind along the hillsides.
There are longer five- to 10-day guided treks and mountain biking trails, such as trek organizer Gite Talassemtane, which specializes in unique experiences within Talassemtane National Park. These family-run hikes are run by members of the Berber mountaineering communities around Chefchaouen are for the more adventurous outdoor traveler and ecotourist and have a strong focus in the appreciation of local customs, cuisine, and art. Travelers are welcomed to stay in the family guesthouse, as well as use local products and help promote environmental awareness. The trekking company also offers multi-day treks as well as biking tours and day trips to local markets.
Tipping the Berber guides isn’t recommended. Instead, Gite encourages travelers to bring school supplies or clothes to donate to schools and other organizations.
Closer to town, just outside the medina there is a 15th century Kasbah, or fortress, and farther one there is a more modern Spanish mosque that is being restored. Visiting the Kasbah is like stepping back in time. The fortress fits into the scenery perfectly, and when I climbed the walls I could see far into the valleys around the city. The garden inside provides the perfect amount of shade to cool down in and offers insight into how the Spaniards lived in the region.
From the Kasbah, I walked to the Spanish mosque, which lies to the west of the medina alone on a hill. While the mosque itself has fallen into disrepair, the views from the top of the hill are incredible, and well worth the short hike up. The Spanish mosque is the perfect spot for a picnic or to watch the sunset over the city.
After a day of hiking, Chefchaouen is the perfect place to reflect and recharge for more adventures.
Rejuvenation
The view from Spanish Mosque outside of Chefchaouen, Morocco. (Photo: Emma Kragenbrink)
The perfect way to wind down and relax after a day of hiking through the mountains is to go to a local hammam, a Turkish bath house. The public hammam in Chefchaouen is located across from the main mosque Jama’a Kabir, and although you must bring your own towel and sandals, the price is only about $2.60 (25.04 dirham) and it is a wonderful way to experience authentic Moroccan culture. There are more luxurious hammams as well, many of them located in high-end hotels such as the Lina Riad & Spa, where you can expect to pay around $25 (240.80 dirham) for a full spa experience.
City Trekking
The walk to Chefchaouen’s medina, or old city, is almost entirely uphill, but along the way you can get glimpses of the blue city as you walk along the winding paths to the city center. I was lucky to bring good walking shoes, which are a must in the city, and I took the walk to the medina slow in order to enjoy the sights. I loved wandering along the city streets even though they are mostly uphill. Chefchaouen is one of the best places to get lost and discover things.
A garment dye shop in the medina of Chefchaouen, Morocco. (Photo: Emma Kragenbrink)
Where To Stay
Since the increase in tourism during the last 20 years, Chefchaouen has developed not only 5-star hotels, such as Lina Riad & Spa, but also more budget-friendly accommodations for backpackers too. I took the budget route during my trip to Chefchaouen, I stayed at Dar Dadicilef Hostel, which is close to both the bus stop and the medina. The hostel is brightly colored and has both a rooftop terrace and a private garden, and comes with breakfast, a plate of bread, jam, and mountains of the region’s famous goat cheese. Owned by a father and son, Dar Dadicilef has an incredibly welcoming vibe and the staff is very happy to help give advice on restaurants or arranging taxis. The space is hard to beat.
How To Get There
Morocco’s transportation system can be extremely bewildering. As a resident of San Francisco, I am a staunch supporter of public transportation and ridesharing, so I figured that it would be similar getting around Morocco. The reality is that transportation can end up being a headache.
The quickest way to get around is to take a taxi. However, there are two types of taxis: Grand Taxis, which can go in between cities and can carry 6 passengers, and Petit Taxis, which are for use strictly within city limits. Bargaining with drivers is often necessary as there are no meters for Grand Taxis. For most travelers, it’s preferable to take a Grand Taxi from Tangier to Chefchaouen. A one-way trip can easily cost $60 (577.93 dirham). The less expensive way for budget travels is to take a CTM bus from Tangier’s main station Gare Routiere. It costs about $15 (144.48 dirham).
Book your next all-women vacation to Morocco with Girls That Roam Travel. Contact Heather Cassell at Girls That Roam Travel at 415-517-7239 or at .
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